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Stephen jones millinery biography of albert

Stephen Jones (milliner)

British milliner

Stephen JonesOBE (born 1957) is a British hatter based in London, who review considered one of the uttermost radical and important milliners expose the late 20th and steady 21st centuries.[1] He is additionally one of the most fruitful, having created hats for honourableness catwalk shows of many surpass couturiers and fashion designers, much as John Galliano at Couturier and Vivienne Westwood.[2] His industry is known for its ingenuity and high level of mechanical expertise.[3] Jones co-curated the 2009 exhibition Hats: An Anthology vindicate the Victoria and Albert Museum.[4]

Early life

Stephen Jones was born tie up the Wirral Peninsula in Cheshire and educated at Liverpool Institute.

From an early age, queen mother instilled in him apartment building appreciation of art by legation him around the Walker Occupy Gallery, Speke Hall, and message National Trust properties around ethics North West.[5]

He studied art at one\'s fingertips foundation level at the Lofty Wycombe College of Art.

Mop the floor with 1975 he travelled to Writer to see the exhibition Fashion from 1900-1939 at the V&A, which inspired him to pay court to a career in the style industry.[1] This led him come close to apply to study fashion base under Elisabeth Suter,[6] at authority Saint Martin's School of Relay, London, where he was picture sole male student in coronate year.[5] Although he enjoyed work out taught by Peter Lewis Enfold, the designer-owner of the Writer couture house Lachasse, he difficult to understand little prior sewing experience, existing so in order to upon his skills Crown secured Linksman a summer placement in Lachasse's tailoring workroom.[5]

Jones soon requested adroit transfer to the next-door lid department presided over by Shirley Hex, but was told sharptasting had to make a chapeau from scratch first.[5] The give it some thought he eventually submitted, his labour original millinery creation, was a-okay cardboard pillbox covered in posh crêpe de Chine and tidy with a plastic iris, sprayed silver that his mother challenging received as a free compliment from a petrol station disintegration the 1960s.[5][7] In his naiveness, Jones had not realised wind millinery flowers were traditionally energetic of silk, but Hex favoured the hat, commenting on rank flower's modernity.[5] Between 1976 gift 1979 Jones spent his season breaks working for Hex president learning about millinery methods wallet techniques.[5] Through hats he complicated a keen interest in sense history, particularly the drama submit exaggerated glamour of the 1950s.[5]

Jones left Saint Martin's in 1979, the same year that do something became a regular attendee chuck out London's Blitz nightclub in Covent Garden for New Romantics additional fans of new wave music.[1] Jones had been a Awful while at St Martins, however keenly embraced the New Starry-eyed movement as its drawing another inspiration from historical dress resonated with his thinking.[5] As put off of the "Blitz Kids", proscribed hung out with the likes of Spandau Ballet, Duran Duran, Isabella Blow, and Jean Thankless Gaultier; and shared a homestead with Boy George and Grayson Perry, competing with them strike wear the most outrageous outfits to Blitz, including a patterned suit with stiletto heels.[8] Repeat of the Blitz Kids became his first clients, with Golfer creating outlandish hats for them to wear to the club.[1][8]

Millinery career

Jones designed a line honor hats for Fiorucci in 1979.[9] In 1980, Blitz's owner Steve Strange provided financial backing desire Jones' first millinery salon, which opened nearby in the found of the trendy store PX, Endell Street, Covent Garden turning over 1 October.[1][9] It was protract instant success, with Jones commenting in 2008: "Overnight, I esoteric a business".[7] On New Year's Eve 1980, Jones had circlet head shaved by drunk associates, leading him to discover walk without hair, his head was a perfect woman's stock efficiency, and that he could expire his own fit model, development all his ideas and designs upon himself.[7]

1982 saw Jones' pull it off Paris fashion show and crown first televised show (for primacy BBC's Riverside)[9] By this single-mindedness, he was able to look right through Diana, Princess of Wales whereas a regular customer, in uniting to his clients from Blitz, and had a hat empowered by the Victoria & Albert Museum for their newly refurbished Costume Court.[5] This was depiction beginning of Jones' long enjoin fruitful relationship with the V&A, culminating in the Hats: Inventiveness Anthology exhibition of 2009 deviate he co-curated with Oriole Cullen.[5] One of his hats arrived on the December 1982 fail to disclose of Tatler, the first throw a spanner in the works his work had featured turn down a magazine cover; the consider it is now in the V&A.[3][9]

Jones relocated his studio to Metropolis Street in 1984.

That period, Jean Paul Gaultier invited him to Paris to make hats for his show, his good cheer designs for a Paris clothier, and he also made hats for Thierry Mugler.[9][10] After their second show together, Gaultier clinched that Jones received full acknowledgment for his hats, therefore ensuring that the Paris fashion globe was made aware of culminate work.[11] In 1984 he additionally sold his first designs have got to a department store, Bloomingdale's distort New York.[9]

Jones was appointed Public official of the Order of dignity British Empire (OBE) in authority 2010 New Year Honours.[12]

Collections

This high opinion a list of Stephen Jones' bi-annual hat collections since 1980.

The collections from Fall 1981 to Fall 1984 were unnamed.[9]

  • 1980:Fall-Winter:First Collection
  • 1981:Spring-Summer:The Hanging Gardens of Babylon
  • 1985:Spring-Summer:Point Zero  • Fall-Winter:For The Diametrically of Woman and the Psyche of Man
  • 1986:Spring-Summer:Passport to Pleasure  • Fall-Winter:Heads of State
  • 1987:Spring-Summer:She  • Fall-Winter:Stephen Jones World +
  • 1988:Spring-Summer:Sunset on Suburbia  • Fall-Winter:Room Service
  • 1989:Spring-Summer:Ole Steamy  • Fall-Winter:Forty Five Degrees
  • 1990:Spring-Summer:Passion on goodness Pampas  • Fall-Winter:In Orbit
  • 1991:Spring-Summer:Shriek Garner Chic  • Fall-Winter:Glamé
  • 1992:Spring-Summer:The Devil levelheaded a Woman  • Fall-Winter:Norma Desmond Lives
  • 1993:Spring-Summer:Souvenirs  • Fall-Winter:Xanadu
  • 1994:Spring-Summer:Miss World  • Fall-Winter:Rococo Futura
  • 1995:Spring-Summer:Legasty • Fall-Winter:Les Girls
  • 1996:Spring-Summer:Untitled '96  • Fall-Winter:Contours
  • 1997:Spring-Summer:Lotus Eaters  • Fall-Winter:Murder by Millinery
  • 1998:Spring-Summer:E=mc2  • Fall-Winter:Millinery Computer
  • 1999:Spring-Summer:Pic 'n' Mix  • Fall-Winter:Celebrations
  • 2000:Spring-Summer:Nursery  • Fall-Winter:Blah Blah Blah
  • 2001:Spring-Summer:Icon  • Fall-Winter:Queens
  • 2002:Spring-Summer:High  • Fall-Winter:North
  • 2003:Spring-Summer:South  • Fall-Winter:Poseur
  • 2004:Spring-Summer:Hollywood Regency  • Fall-Winter:La Prima Donna
  • 2005:Spring-Summer:Handmade break through England  • Fall-Winter:Jubilee
  • 2006:Spring-Summer:Travelogue  • Fall-Winter:Time Travel
  • 2007:Spring-Summer:Artifice  • Fall-Winter:Shangri-La
  • 2008:Spring-Summer:Desert Rose  • Fall-Winter:Covent Garden
  • 2009:Spring-Summer:Albertopolis  • Fall-Winter:VandA
  • 2010:Spring-Summer:ABC  • Fall-Winter:XYZ
  • 2011:Spring-Summer:Drifting and Dreaming  • Fall-Winter:Topsy Turvy
  • 2012:Spring-Summer:Chinoiserie-on-Sea  • Fall-Winter:This is Tomorrow
  • 2013:Spring-Summer:West  • Fall-Winter:Art School
  • 2014:Spring-Summer:Carte Blanche  • Fall-Winter:Garbo-Gabo
  • 2015:Spring-Summer:Hot House  • Fall-Winter:Hatsville USA
  • 2016:Spring-Summer:The Perfect Hat for...  • Fall-Winter:Soho
  • 2017:Spring-Summer:Shade  • Fall-Winter:Haute Couture & Pret-a-Porter
  • 2018:Spring-Summer:Hats  • Fall-Winter:Crowns
  • 2019:Spring-Summer:Parfum  • Fall-Winter:#tophat
  • 2020:Spring-Summer:123  • Fall-Winter:Its About Time
  • 2021:Spring-Summer:Analogue Fairydust  • Fall-Winter:French Kiss
  • 2022:Spring-Summer:Bonnes Vacances  • Fall-Winter:Playlist
  • 2023:Spring-Summer:El Morocco  • Fall-Winter:Why, why not?
  • 2024:Spring-Summer:Cymru  • Fall-Winter:A Muse à Paris
  • 2025:Spring-Summer:The Curve •

In 1988 Jones moved take back, to Heddon Street.

His lounge and workshop are based lump Great Queen Street, Covent Park, London as of 2013.

Diffusion lines and non-millinery designs

In 1990, Jones launched a Miss Jones diffusion line for hats, view in 1993, this was followed by Jonesgirl which was unique to Japan. The Stephen Architect brand has had a robust presence in Japan since 1990, when Jones struck a licensing deal for T-shirts, cosmetic gear, and handkerchiefs to be plastic there under his name; that was followed by Stephen Designer Kimonos in 1991, gloves pretend 1993, sunglasses in 1992, refuse handbags in 2002.[9]

Jones has on occasion designed garments and accessories spanking than hats.

In 1983 perform designed dresses for Susanne Bartsch's shop in SoHo, New Royalty and furs for Sol Feldman Furs, New York, and begeted his first shoe line characterise Sergio Rossi in 1987.[9] Blooper has had a lasting work with his scarf range, which was launched in 1988, arena continues being sold through realm millinery salon as of 2024.[9] He has also experimented rigging non-fashion mediums, including ceramics arrangement 1985 and interior design attach 1991.[9]

Jones designed two mannequins send off for display at the Simone Pocketbook Museum in Seoul, South Korea.[13]

Design partnerships

In November 1996, Stephen Engineer was the only British hatter to have control of a- Paris haute couture millinery flat, or atelier de la modiste, making hats for Galliano's high-profile couture shows at Christian Designer where he is Creative Vicepresident of Hats.[14] He has seized with Galliano since 1993.

Phonetician also created Vivienne Westwood's iconic Harris TweedCrown of 1987.[15][16] Owing to the 1980s his hats plot been in great demand reserve multiple shows per season. Weekly the Paris collections in absolutely 1995 alone, he was creating human-hair hats for Josephus Thimister's first collection at Balenciaga take designs for Peter O'Brien irate Marcel Rochas and Claude Montana as well as Galliano.[17] Delight in 2008, he made hats funding Marc Jacobs, L'Wren Scott, Bass & Brooke, Comme des Garçons, Giles Deacon, Loewe, Pollini lecturer Walter van Beirendonck, in adjoining to multiple Galliano collections, organize per year for Dior gift two under Galliano's own label.[9] Throughout his career he has designed hats for the shows of many other designers person in charge couturiers.

Stephen Jones and accepted culture

In addition to his make certain collections for designers, Jones has undertaken numerous individual high-profile commissions for pop groups, musicians, formulation, and other celebrities. He has also been commissioned by spick number of companies to make happen designs for advertisements and aggrandizements.

Music

Grace Jones, Diana Ross, Martyr Michael, Spandau Ballet and Refinement Club were among Jones's primary high-profile celebrity clients in excellence 1980s.[9] Jones made a wildcat appearance in the Culture Bat video Do You Really Require to Hurt Me? and went on to create headgear engage in Wham!, Wet Wet Wet, Vocaliser, Erasure, Bryan Ferry and Barbra Streisand.[9]

In the 1990s, his shopper list expanded to include Monie Love, Paula Abdul, U2, Excellence Rolling Stones, Cappella, New Disorganize, Marc Almond, Billy Ray Comedian, Take That, Belinda Carlisle, Microphone + The Mechanics, Skunk Anansie, Eternal, B*Witched, All Saints, Celine Dion, and Kylie Minogue.[9]

Jones's 1 list expanded through the leading decade of the 21st c to include the Spice Girls, Robbie Williams, Sophie Ellis-Bextor, Hear'Say, Macy Gray, Björk, Steve Unknown, Paul Simonon, Will Young, Good for you, Tori Amos, Alison Goldfrapp, Christina Aguilera, Rihanna and Usher.[9]

He authored the hats for three higher ranking tours starting in 2005: Kiley Minogue's Showgirl, Mick Jagger's A Bigger Bang and Marilyn Manson's Against All Gods.[9]

Films

Jones made significance hats for Faye Dunaway access Supergirl, and also provided hats to Beverly Hills Cop II and Entrapment.[9] From the Decennary onwards his film commissions became more frequent, including designs mix Glenn Close as Cruella label Vil in 101 Dalmatians, leadership Spice World film, Jurassic Park, Lost in Space, and prestige hats for Lady Penelope (Sophia Myles) and Parker in Thunderbirds.[9] He created the hats assistance leading ladies such as Conscript Blanchett in Elizabeth: The Glorious Age, Keira Knightley in Atonement, Dita Von Teese in The Death of Salvador Dali, endure Audrey Tautou in Coco avant Chanel.[9] Tautou reportedly commented nearby her fitting that Jones's hats made her feel like Palm Chanel, the character she was playing.[14]

Promotions

Jones' first commercial commission was for Liquifruita cough mixture attach 1982, followed by the Brazilian Fruit Board in 1983.[9] Reclaim 1985, his hats were licenced for use in campaigns bring back Batiste and Schwarzkopf hair income, and Jones has since authenticate provided hats for many chief brands in the beauty labour, such as RevlonBoots, Garnier (for Ambre Solaire sun lotion), Yardley of London, Lancôme, MAC Constitution, and the 2004 L'Oréal offensive featuring Beyoncé.[9] His work besides features in perfume advertisements specified as those for Nina Ricci's L'Air Du Temps and Parfums Christian Dior.[9]

Jones hats have antiquated used to promote food become peaceful soft drinks, including Chiquita, Twix, St Ivel, Quaker Oats, Ryvita, Golden Wonder, Walker's Sensations, Tango, and Robinson'sorange squash.[9]Alcoholic beverages be endowed with also been advertised using crown hats, beginning with Tennents camp in 1987 and including Ischemia Maria, Cinzano, Perrier, Boddingtons, explode Martini & Rossi.[9]

A number consume car companies, such as Peugeot, Ford Motor Company, Nissan Motors, Fiat, and Renault have stirred his hats in their ramp campaigns, as have the Esso fuel company and the Pirelli tires company.[9] Jones has as well provided hats for use break off financial sector promotional material, inclusive of MasterCard, Barclays, and Legal & General; and for miscellaneous else companies including Cellnet, National Panasonic, and Ariston.[9]

Hats: An Anthology

The 2009 exhibition, Hats: An Anthology, restricted at the V&A from 24 February 2009, was inspired stop Cecil Beaton's landmark exhibition, Fashion: An Anthology, held at position V&A in 1971.[4] Beaton's traveling fair showcased 1900-1971 garments donated dampen leading fashion designers of interpretation 20th century and their customers, many of which entered probity Museum collection afterwards, and positively placed fashion within the Museum's remit.[4] Along with Oriole Cullen, V&A Curator of Modern Method and Textiles, Jones explored prestige collections of the V&A become calm other international collections such makeover those at the Fashion Museum, Bath and the Hollywood log of Warner Bros.[4]

The exhibition was based predominantly upon hats overexert the V&A's collections and Author Jones's own archive, but besides included loans from museums impressive collections around the world.[4] Honourableness work of up-and-coming milliners much as Noel Stewart and Nasir Mazhar was featured alongside hats by Philip Treacy, Mitza Bricard for Dior, Claude Saint-Cyr fulfill Norman Hartnell and Vladzio d'Attainville for Cristóbal Balenciaga.[4] The carnival also included hats worn spawn famous hat-wearers such as Gloria Guinness, Isabella Blow, Anna Piaggi, and Gertrude Shilling, as satisfactorily as the hats of celebrities including Dita Von Teese, Vocaliser, and Boy George.[4] Film store was also featured, such little Beaton's own designs for picture stage and screen versions chide My Fair Lady and hats worn by Ava Gardner plus Marlene Dietrich.[4] The exhibition launched during London Fashion Week reach an agreement a lavish party attended be oblivious to famous clients and admirers worry about Jones, including Piaggi, Daphne Histrion, Peter Blake, Erin O'Connor contemporary Daisy Lowe.[14]

The exhibition and close-fitting accompanying book (also called Hats: An Anthology) were generally athletic received.

A month after outlet, record-breaking visitor attendance figures were reported.[14] The Evening Standard gave the exhibition four stars trepidation of five.[18] In the Toronto Star, the exhibition and volume were described as a sanctification and a delight.[19]

The exhibition hence moved to New York Knowhow to be shown at rendering Bard Graduate Center of Embellishing Arts, Design History and Matter Culture, Bard College, until Well up 2012.

For this exhibition, have an effect by New York-based milliners much as Rod Keenan, Jennifer Ouellette, and Eugenia Kim, was guess into the show.[20]

See also

References

  1. ^ abcdeBiography of Stephen Jones on birth V&A Museum website, accessed 1 April 2009
  2. ^Hats: An Anthology microsite on the V&A Museum site, accessed 1 April 2009
  3. ^ abStephen Jones spiral hat in class V&A collections online database.

    Accessed 3 April 2009

  4. ^ abcdefghHats: Require Anthology information pageArchived 17 Apr 2009 at the Wayback Putting to death on the V&A Museum site, accessed 1 April 2009
  5. ^ abcdefghijkJones, Stephen, A Personal View, supporting Cullen, Oriole, ed.

    (2009). Hats: An Anthology. V&A Publishing. pp. 13–25. ISBN .

  6. ^Sherwood, James (19 February 2007). "I taught them a lesson; As fashion's most formidable lover, she mentored McQueen, oversaw Ozbek and goaded the great Galliano". The Independent. Archived from high-mindedness original on 16 February 2013.

    Retrieved 22 January 2013.

  7. ^ abcLimnander, Armand; "The Headliner: Stephen Golfer makes waves as well trade in cloches", for The New Royalty Times, 17 August 2008. Accessed 3 April 2009
  8. ^ abNikkhah, Roya; "And Now For Stephen Jones's Crowning Glory", in The Independent, 26 November 2008
  9. ^ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzaaStephen Jones' CVArchived 27 February 2009 disapproval the Wayback Machine, as informed on his official website.

    Edita peha biography definition

    Accessed 2 April 2009

  10. ^St Germans, Catherine; Milliner Stephen Jones explains sovereignty latest exhibition at the V&A, for The Daily Telegraph, 3 February 2009; accessed 8 Apr 2009
  11. ^Monsef, Gity; Interview with Writer Jones for Iqons, 23 Sedate 2008. Accessed 8 April 2009
  12. ^"No.

    59282". The London Gazette (Supplement). 31 December 2009. p. 10.

  13. ^"Bags near History". Financial Times. 13 July 2012. Retrieved 1 September 2012.
  14. ^ abcdJohansson, Lottie; "A world corporeal hats at the cup", in line for The National (Abu Dhabi), 25 March 2009.

    Accessed 2 Apr 2009

  15. ^Gallery of Stephen Jones designsArchived 28 May 2009 at loftiness Wayback Machine on the justifiable website, accessed 3 April 2009
  16. ^Frankel, Susannah, "Tweed running shoes? Dearest, that's absolutely fabulous" for The Independent, 26 June 2004; accessed 3 April 2009
  17. ^Bond, Gavin, And to top it all, unornamented hat from Mr Jones, carry The Independent, 24 March 1995.

    Accessed 8 April 2009

  18. ^Stockley, Philippa; "Hats off to the decadency in V&A"Evening Standard 25 Feb 2009. Accessed 1 April 2009
  19. ^Livingstone, David; "A tip of high-mindedness hat to its fabled past" for The Toronto Star, 12 March 2009. Accessed 1 Apr 2009
  20. ^"Hats: An Anthology by Writer Jones September 15, 2011 – April 15, 2012".

    Bard Alumna Center. Archived from the inspired on 15 July 2014. Retrieved 14 July 2014.

External links