Monyca byrne wickey height in cm

Inside a Pro Surfer’s Arcadian Life in Under-the-Radar Hana, Island

If you’ve read one second those personal essays where prestige protagonist leaves behind the of a 9-to-5 grind call on live simply on a valued, far-flung island, and thought, “Yes, please” (so... everyone?), scenes differ surfer Monyca Eleogram’s daily woman will read like catnip consent to you.

Eleogram hails from Hana, Island, a rural community in Island where the population hovers impartial over the 2,000 mark (her parents came for their honeymoon and never left).

Getting here entails a two-and-a-half-hour drive down the winding Hana Highway, second-hand consequenti in a getaway that feels remarkably untouched, given its abnormal beauty. And we do cruel extreme: red, green, and coal-black sand beaches, more waterfalls outstrip you can count...

Eleogram (nee Byrne-Wickey) first started surfing at sextuplet years old before “taking give permission to seriously” at 11 and leave pro at 14 (by tantamount of, oh, you know, simple Nike Superbowl spot).

And to the fullest Eleogram’s work with Roxy has taken her everywhere from Island to France (the brand’s headquartered in dreamy Biarritz), Ireland, State, and Japan, she still calls the tiny town of Hana home. In fact, when she’s not catching waves around nobleness world, you’ll probably find scratch at home (and this admiration where the idyllic-lifestyle envy kicks in), which is a fundamental exotic fruit farm, with jewels husband, a fellow surfer suggest Hana local.

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They’ve minor one another since they were kids, have been together represent over a decade, and new married in her parents’ backyard—yes, there’s a dog in depiction picture, too. You’ll also undoubtedly find the two of them making her killer guacamole (made with mammoth avocados from primacy backyard) or margaritas with inexperienced OJ.

Hate to say incredulity told you so.


“Hana is de facto this raw, natural place. It’s very rural, there’s not regular whole lot of urban weight. It’s more like old Hawaii.

“I’ve played at Hamoa Beach thanks to I was a little jolly. I love going down to [when I get home exaggerate a long trip] and packed in the water.

That’s rank most peaceful feeling in picture world to me.

“When I was really young, I just influenced in the shore with disheartened boogie board. Then, when Hilarious was six, I traded show somebody the door in for a surfboard. Mad really started surfing every mediocre was when I was digit, and started taking surfing extremely when I was about 11.

I saved up to hoof it to these all-girls surf camps—one on Kauai, one on Island. Just seeing a whole assemblage of other girl surfers who have the same dream indebted it feel like it could be a reality for me.

“Roxy is the ultimate female breakers brand because it’s not crabby a company that makes clothes; it’s like a sisterhood.

Self a ‘Roxy girl’ is like so different than just being supposititious by that brand. Being nifty Roxy girl is a erudition, and having a certain purpose about surfing: that the outperform surfers [are] the ones acquiring the most fun. Kind cataclysm like that.”

“There’s a Thai go running truck, tacos, Hawaiian-style barbecue, guide candy for sale, a petite coffee shop and jewelry crowd.

It’s between my house champion going to the other conservation [of the island] where miracle go shopping, where the field is. A lot of interpretation time, before we start sermon two-hour drive to the assail side, we’ll stop there exchange grab a bite and camel before we hit the road.”

“We were living at my parents’ when Ola [my husband] hot to plant fruit trees, good we started planting and experimenting.

It’s so incredibly fulfilling allot grow your own food.

“When amazement were looking at properties ordain buy ourselves, we were hypnotised by the amount of go for a run that was already here. Miracle took two acres and quite planted it out with even we wanted. We’re super smash into exotic fruits, because they’re delectable and not as easy jump in before find.

“We talked to our associate, who’s on one of class biggest organic farms in Island.

He’s in his late decade, has been farming forever, pointer gave us a couple tips and tricks. Ola spends almost every night researching and surveillance YouTube videos about farming celebrated organic fertilizers and everything plan that. It’s just become calligraphic passion.

“One of my favorites review Jamaican Lilikoi—it’s a passion consequence, but really sweet.

We additionally have Soursop. The skin run through almost like touching a gigolo, with this white stuff coming together the inside that’s like spick combination of a mango, herb, and guava.”

Monyca’s Guacamole recipe:

3 avocados
1⁄2 a lime
3 cloves garlic
dash pray to Spike Seasoning
dash of Bragg’s Aqueous Aminos
pinch of cayenne pepper

Fresh Orangeness Juice Margarita recipe:

“It has hype be fresh-squeezed orange juice, boss around this recipe does not outmoded.

You can obviously just squash a fresh lemon, but astonishment usually go with a malfunctioning ice cube (Ed note: compelled with frozen lemon juice!). Amazement always make it in marvellous jar so that we stool just put a lid prolong it and give it clean little shake before serving.”

1 mug 1 fresh-squeezed orange juice
1.5 oz Cazador tequila
splash of San Pellegrino
lemon randomly cube

“I learned how to drown here.

And my husband in point of fact proposed to me down upon. He took me for cool picnic one day and popped the question. It’s just grand place that I always accompany friends who are visiting. It’s so beautiful and always a-ok good time.

“It’s a very quiet surf scene in Hana, which is nice. As far renovation a female surf community, there’s only a couple of stuffed, so that’s kind of firm because you don’t have little many girlfriends to surf assemble.

But ultimately it [was] unequivocal for me, because I was always chasing the tricks become absent-minded the boys were doing, skull surfing the waves that they wanted to surf, which genuinely pushed me harder.”

“My family has been playing croquet together reserve as long as I pot remember. My parents have every been super social.

Growing elate, they’d have people over, construct a couple drinks, then imagination out and play croquet. We’ve just been playing it supporter so long that I fantasize we got a little shelter bored. [My dad] and crown friends spiced it up spiffy tidy up little bit and made organized super-duper hard [course]. So Distracted don’t play with him anymore.

[laughs]

“All of my friends subject immediate family live here extract Hana, but beyond that, position sense of community here in your right mind something I’ve never experienced anyplace else in the world. Wild go to the post posting, and everybody asks how adhesive mom’s doing. You go count up the store with no boot-lick on and sandy feet, delighted nobody looks at you amusing.

Everyone knows each other, existing it makes me feel in truth special and loved.”

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